Do not be scared by the pattern. It might look huge and complicated, but it is all stockinette stitch knitting + the fancy trimming i put on.... The trimming is very easy actually and i added it for each sweater portion rather then just writing it once and then referring to it....thought it might be more convenient that way.I am making this pattern available in the following sizes:
6-12 months (17-19 inch chest)
1-2T (19-21 inch chest) shown here
2-3T (21-23 inch chest)
3-5T (23-25 inch chest)
Materials:
3, 3, 4, 4 Pure Wool Dk from Rowan (color 038)
1, 1, 2, 2 Wool Cotton from Rowan (color 961)
4mm 16", 20" circular needles.
4 mm 12" circular needles or a set of 4 mm double-pointed needles
Stitch markers
Method:Pocket (i suggest to knit it first)
Using provisional cast on method, make a chain of 56 loops with a crochet hook.
Then switch to needles, attach main color yarn and pick up 38 (42, 44, 48) sts from the chain.
Knit in stockinette stitch for 8 (12, 14, 16) rows.
Next row [k1, p1, k1, p1, k1], ssk, knit to last 7 sts and k2tog, [k1, p1, k1, p1, k1].
Next row [k1, p1, k1, p1, k1], purl to last 5 sts and [k1, p1, k1, p1, k1].
Repeat last 2 rows 3 (4, 4, 5) more times (30, 32, 34, 36 sts).
Then knit in stockinette stitch for 18 (20, 20, 20) rows.
You should have worked 34 (42, 44, 50) rows all together.
Keep the stitches on holder or a spare set of needles.
Sweater (raglan, knitted top down)
Using main color, cast on 66 (72, 72, 78) sts.
Join in the round.
Going to start working on the pattern for neck/wrists/hem
Pattern (multiple of 6 sts if knitted in the round):
Rnd 1:Knit
Rnd 2: Purl
Rnd 3: Knit
Rnd 4: Switch to contrast color and knit 5, slip 1, knit 5, slip 1...continue to the end of the round (Make sure that the slipped stitch is in front of the work all the time and the working yarn is behind it for this rnd and the following rnds).
Rnd 5: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 6: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 7: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 8: Switch to main color and knit.
Rnd 9: Knit.
Rnd 10: Switch to contrast color. Knit 2, slip 1, *knit 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, knit2.
Rnd 11: Purl 2, slip 1, *purl 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, purl 2.
Rnd 12: Purl 2, slip 1, *purl 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, purl 2.
Rnd 13: Purl 2, slip 1, *purl 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, purl 2.
Rnd 14: Switch to main color and knit.
Rnd 15: Purl
Rnd 16: Knit
Rnd 17: Purl
Next round knit and place markers as follows: knit 11 (12, 12, 13) (half back), pm, knit 11 (12, 12, 13) (sleeve), pm, knit 22 (24, 24, 26) (front), pm, knit 11 (12, 12, 13) (sleeve), pm, knit 11 (12, 12, 13) to the end of the round (half back). You should have 5 markers: one that indicates the start of the round and it will be the central back, and 4 markers that you just placed.
Starting to shape raglan:
Knit into the front and back of a stitch before and after each marker (except the central back one). This will be the increase rnd, and you have increased by 8 stitches.
Next rnd knit.
Continue repeating these last 2 rnds till you have 39 (42, 44, 47) sts for the each sleeve and 50 (54, 56, 60) for the front and back portions each.
Next rnd, knit 25 (27, 28, 30) sts, put 39 (42, 44, 47) sts on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, cast on 2 (4, 4, 6)sts, knit 50 (54, 56, 60), put next 39 (42, 44, 47) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, cast on 2 (4, 4, 6) sts, knit 25 (27, 28, 30) sts. (Total of 104, 116, 120, 132 sts)
Continue knitting in stockinette sts for about 1 inch.
Next round place markers as follows:
From the beginning of the round, knit 16 (18, 19, 21), pm, knit 20 (22, 22, 24), pm, knit 32 (36, 38, 42) pm, knit 20 (22, 22, 24), pm, knit 16 (18, 19, 21) to the end of the round.
Next round: knit 16 (18, 19, 21), make 1, pass marker, knit 20 (22, 22, 24), pass marker, make 1, knit 32 (36, 38, 42), make 1, pass marker, knit 20 (22, 22, 24), pass marker, make 1, knit 16 (18, 19, 21) (108, 120, 124, 136 sts).
Knit for 3 (5, 6, 7) more rounds.
Next round:knit 17 (19, 20, 22), make 1, pass marker, knit 20 (22, 22, 24), pass marker, make 1, knit 34 (38, 40, 44), make 1, pass marker, knit 20 (22, 22, 24), pass marker, make 1, knit 17 (19, 20, 22) (112, 124, 128, 140 sts).
Next round knit 18 (20, 21, 23), pass marker, knit 20 (22, 22, 24), pass marker, knit 3 (4, 4, 5) then align the top of the pocket with your work (right sides should be facing each other), and with the pocket on top knit through the pocket stitches and your work stitches as normal (30, 32, 34, 36 sts), then knit 3 (4, 4, 5), pass marker, knit 20 (22, 22, 24), pass marker, knit 18(20, 21, 23).
Knit for the next 10 rnds.
Next round:knit 18 (20, 21, 23), make 1, pass marker, knit 20 (22, 22, 24), pass marker, make 1, knit 36 (40, 42, 46), make 1, pass marker, knit 20 (22, 22, 24), pass marker, make 1, knit 18 (20, 21, 23) (116, 128, 132, 144 sts).
Knit for the next 23 (31, 33, 39) rounds.
Now remove the provisional cast on and pick up the live stitches form the bottom portion of the pocket. Align the pocket with your work (this time the right side of your work is facing the wrong side of the pocket), and knit the front 38 (42, 44, 48) sts (sts between the frontal markers) with the 38 (42, 44, 48) sts from the bottom of the pocket.
Knit 3 more rnds.
Next rnd, increase evenly 4 sts for the size 6-12 months and 2-3T. So that you have 42 and 48 sts respectively.
Knit next rnd.
At this point the length of the garment should be about 8 (9, 9.5, 10.5) inches from the underarm.
The following rnds are as follows:
Rnd 1: Purl
Rnd 2: Knit
Rnd 3: Purl
Rnd 4: Knit
Rnd 5: Switch to contrast color and knit 5, slip 1, knit 5, slip 1...continue to the end of the round (Make sure that the slipped stitch is in front of the work all the time and the working yarn is behind it for this rnd and the following rnds).
Rnd 6: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 7: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 8: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 9: Switch to main color and knit.
Rnd 10: Knit.
Rnd 11: Switch to contrast color. Knit 2, slip 1, *knit 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, knit2.
Rnd 12: Purl 2, slip 1, *purl 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, purl 2.
Rnd 13: Purl 2, slip 1, *purl 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, purl 2.
Rnd 14: Purl 2, slip 1, *purl 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, purl 2.
Rnd 15: Switch to main color and knit.
Rnd 16: Knit
Rnd 17: Switch to contrast color and knit 5, slip 1, knit 5, slip 1...continue to the end of the round
Rnd 18: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 19: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 20: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 21: Switch to main color and knit.
Rnd 22: Knit.
Rnd 23: Purl
Rnd 24: Knit
Rnd 25: Purl
Bind off. The garment should measure about 11 inches form the underarm.
Sleeves:
Pick up the sleeve stitches from the holder, join yarn and pick up evenly 3 (6, 6, 7) more sts from the underarm area (42, 48, 50, 54 sts)
Knit for ~2 inches, the start decreasing rnds.
Decreasing rnd: knit1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, knit1.
Do the decreasing rnd every inch till you have 36 (42, 42, 42 sts). That works out to 3 (3, 4, 6) decreasing rounds. Knit for another inch or so.
The sleeve length is about 5 (5, 6, 8) inches at this point.
Keep in mind that the following 25 rnds will add another 3 inches to the sleeve length, so that the finished sleeve will measure about 8 (8, 9, 11) inches. If you want it longer or shorter, adjust the number of plain rounds between the decreasing rounds.
The following rnds are as follows:
Rnd 1: Purl
Rnd 2: Knit
Rnd 3: Purl
Rnd 4: Knit
Rnd 5: Switch to contrast color and knit 5, slip 1, knit 5, slip 1...continue to the end of the round (Make sure that the slipped stitch is in front of the work all the time and the working yarn is behind it for this rnd and the following rnds).
Rnd 6: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 7: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 8: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 9: Switch to main color and knit.
Rnd 10: Knit.
Rnd 11: Switch to contrast color. Knit 2, slip 1, *knit 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, knit2.
Rnd 12: Purl 2, slip 1, *purl 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, purl 2.
Rnd 13: Purl 2, slip 1, *purl 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, purl 2.
Rnd 14: Purl 2, slip 1, *purl 5, slip1*. Continue * to last 3 sts, slip1, purl 2.
Rnd 15: Switch to main color and knit.
Rnd 16: Knit
Rnd 17: Switch to contrast color and knit 5, slip 1, knit 5, slip 1...continue to the end of the round
Rnd 18: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 19: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 20: Purl 5, slip1, purl5, slip1...continue like that to the end of the rnd.
Rnd 21: Switch to main color and knit.
Rnd 22: Knit.
Rnd 23: Purl
Rnd 24: Knit
Rnd 25: Purl
Bind off.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Weave in ends. Sew the side of the pocket to the sweater (ie the portion before the moss stitches).
Block
Done!
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